The EUMC Logbook

No. 3 Gully butress

Henward and Jitka on 2005-03-06 at Ben Nevis

Grade: III

Description:
no description

Comments:
Henward - My First attempt at leading grade III, nice route which went well (except when I fell off the very first move of the entire route into a pile of powder snow :o) )

Left Twin

Henward (and Harriet leading) on 2005-02-19 at Aonach mor

Grade: III

Description:
My first real experience of ice climbing. quite scarry really but satisfying and good fun. lots of good hard ice for me to hack ineptly at.

Comments:
no comment

Carrington--Rouse

Toby Blonde and Clare on 2004-03-17 at N Face Aig. des Pelerins

Grade: ED2 or V 5 M in N.G.etM.

Description:
no description

Comments:
Seems to be the only route with any ice on it anywhere in the Alps ...

The Migrant

Toby and Blonde on 2004-03-07 at Coire an Lochain

Grade: VI 7

Description:
The best route I've done in the Norries. This route is totally awesome. Really, totally incredible.

Comments:
no comment

Twisting Grooves

Toby and Jo on 2004-02-29 at Coire nan Lochan

Grade: IV 5

Description:
A direct first pitch on Twisting Gully, climbing an obvious series of corners to the left of the normal start. Steep and interesting climbing using lots of blobs of turf.

Comments:
no comment

Taxus

Toby Blonde and Clare on 2004-02-28 at Beinn an Dothaidh

Grade: III

Description:
Pleasant gully with several pitches

Comments:
Quite lean

The Hoarmaster

Toby and Clare on 2004-02-25 at Coire an Lochain

Grade: V 6

Description:
Stellar climbing, steep sustained and well protected.

Comments:
no comment

Route Major

Toby and Clare on 2004-02-24 at Carn Etchachan

Grade: IV 5

Description:
Classic Carngorms stuff, lots of turf

Comments:
no comment

Ewen Buttress Direct

Toby and Blonde on 2004-02-22 at Coire an Lochain

Grade: IV 5

Description:
A total sandbag

Comments:
no comment

Original Route Alladin's Buttress

Toby and Blonde on 2004-02-21 at Coire an-t'Sneachda

Grade: IV 6

Description:
Left edge of Alladin's Buttress, snowed up rock and turf

Comments:
no comment

Eastern Buttress

Toby and Jo on 2004-02-17 at Triple Buttress, Beinn Eighe

Grade: IV

Description:
Line of least resistance up the Buttress, traversing in from the left along the obvious terrace. Very hooky rock and little turf, amenable to being climbed under almost any conditions

Comments:
A very long day out

Menage a Trois

Toby and Blonde on 2004-01-31 at Beinn an Dothaidh

Grade: V 6

Description:
Excellent route, with just one hard pitch in the middle.

Comments:
Turf it up!

Crest Route

Toby and Blonde on 2004-01-25 at Coire nan Lochan

Grade: V 6

Description:
Line of least resistance up North Buttress on Stob Coire nan Lochan. Snowed up rock, mostly good hooks and slots, little turf.

Comments:
Tom climbed the third pitch direct, which Toby found hard to follow and was left dangling by one axe. Apparently the correct route traverses left to avoid this section.

Deep Throat

Toby and Blonde on 2004-01-11 at Coire an Lochain

Grade: V 6

Description:
no description

Comments:
Good ``proper'' conditions, i.e. turf frozen and lots of snow and ice, required lots of digging and scraping. But not as much digging as on Tuesday when we went back to look for the rucksacks we left near the bottom of the route ...

Aonach Eagach

Henry and Ruth on 2003-12-30 at Glen Coe

Grade: II

Description:
The odd tricky bit here and there, different bits are hard in summer and winter.

Comments:
We were on top of the ridge before dawn and the light was just amazing. Bimbled along all day. Took a while.

a dog in the ass

bungle on 2003-06-19 at J tree

Grade: 5.9

Description:
hee hee hee hee hee hee i am battered big up to my new flatmates i love you guys + one girl

Comments:
legends thats all you need to know

Green Eyes

Toby Johnson on 2003-02-22 at Beinn Udlaidh

Grade: IV/4

Description:
Nice featured water ice.

Comments:
Climbed with Blonde and Emmy. Plastic fantastic but quite wet.

Black Wall South Gully

Toby Johnson on 2003-02-22 at Beinn Udlaidh

Grade: IV/4

Description:
More water ice.

Comments:
Climbed with Blonde and Emmy.

Claire-Chazal

Toby and Blonde on 2003-02-16 at Pointe Farrar, Petit Aiguille Verte

Grade: II 4

Description:
On the day, short sections of steep ice and mixed climbing to about Scottish IV/6 were found. We climbed the first 7 pitches of this 500m route.

Comments:
no comment

Contamine-Mazeaud

Toby and Blonde on 2003-02-10 at N (Triangle) Face, Mt. Blanc du Tacul

Grade: II AD+

Description:
Pleasant intro to Winter Alpine. 350m face route with ice to 70 degrees and easy mixed. Equiped for abseil by the line of ascent, except for the top ridge section.

Comments:
no comment

Cascade d'EMHM

Toby and Blonde on 2003-02-03 at Rive Gauche, Argentiere glacier

Grade: I 4

Description:
A 3 pitch ice fall, the crux is short section of 85 degrees.

Comments:
About 8 hours of trail breaking on the approach and descent.

Finger's Ridge

Toby Johnson on 2002-10-19 at Coire an-t'Sneachda

Grade: IV/4

Description:
A good choice for early season conditions, not requiring ice or turf to be frozen.

Comments:
no comment

Mississippi Buttress Direct

Toby Johnson on 2002-10-06 at Stanage

Grade: VS 4c

Description:
Great route with full on wierd moves

Comments:
no comment

harry dodders crack

RAb on 2000-07-16 at Wallaces Cave

Grade: E1 5b

Description:
interesting layback on a flake after getting started from just below it. Move out of the layback on to a ledge and make your way up the crack to finish with a couple of small reachy holds.

Comments:
Not bad, quite interesting in the fact that the style changes from flake to crack after the ledge and a few fingers to find at the top

GBH Traverse

Gaz on 0000-00-00 at GBH

Grade: E1 4a

Description:
1 move. Bit of a long span. If your lucky you'll land on a passing ned.

Comments:
I was a bit tipsy and dressed like a red indian. I lost my tooth shortly after.